Puppies for sale: Please contact us if the page is empty.



Below is a current selection of well bred puppies available direct from us, all come with 4 weeks free insurance, Kennel Club registration, Vet checked, wormed and well socialised. Those not bred by us may not have all the above, please check prior to purchase.

NONE AVAILABLE AT THE MOMENT. PLEASE CALL FOR FUTURE DETAILS OR ADVICE


We are not commercial breeders and only have 1 or 2 litters per year, but we do concentrate on getting quality and all our pups are bred very carefully using quality stock

We do sometimes have pups sired by our dogs available so please contact us for further advice.










Above bitch Pup was born in March 07 to Cedar.







HOW TO CHOOSE A PUPPY

Purchasing or adopting a new puppy can be very exciting but it is important to thoroughly evaluate the puppy's personality before making your decision. Theoretically you should have already done a great deal of research to determine the right breed for you and your family, but it is important to note that not all puppies of a particular breed are the same. There may be certain characteristics which are prevalent in a particular breed but not all puppies will display these behaviors. Likewise, some puppies might be dominant while others are submissive. Also, some puppies may be independent while others are insecure and clingy.

The type of puppy you are seeking will depend on your experience in training puppies as well as your personal preferences. When performing a puppy personality test, the test criteria and evaluation results will depend largely on what you are looking for in a puppy. For example, if you wish to compete in competitive dog sports such as fly ball, agility or herding, you will likely want a puppy who is independent, intelligent and athletic. If you have a dominant dog, you may be seeking a puppy who is rather submissive. All of these considerations are very important. The following is a list of a few elements of a puppy personality test which may be used to evaluate a puppy:

Dominance testing can be performed by restraining the puppy on his back. To conduct this test, gently roll the puppy onto his back and hold him down for 30 seconds. A puppy that spends the entire 30 seconds fighting you and trying to escape from this position is likely a dominant puppy. Conversely, a puppy who immediately looks away, relaxes and licks your hand is likely to be submissive. Puppies that fight for a few seconds and then relax are not overly dominant or submissive.

Independence can be gauged by walking away from a puppy while you have his attention. Puppies that ignore you when you walk away are very independent. Less secure puppies will follow behind you in a subdued manner with their tails lowered.
Prey drive can be evaluated by using your hand or other object to tempt the puppy. You may move your hand or the object along the ground in front of the puppy. If he reacts by pouncing on your hand or the object and chasing it, he has a strong prey drive.
Friendliness towards dogs and humans can be evaluated by observing the puppy. Ideally the puppy will behave in a friendly manner towards all humans and dogs in the room. Examples of behaviors which are not considered friendly may include showing the teeth, raising the lip and holding the tail upward. Mouthing, which is essentially a form of mock biting, is also considered inappropriate behavior. Dogs often display mouthing behavior when they are playing together. Although they are not really biting, it is preferred for them to not display this type of behavior on humans as some dogs may do this harder than others if they have a particularly hard mouth. Dogs who have a hard mouth may not mean harm but do not realize they are not being gentle. To avoid this type of problem, mouthing should be discouraged.

When selecting a puppy, owners may wish to search for one particular breed or remain open to a number of different breeds, including mixes. The far better way to evaluate a puppy is for the potential dog owner to pay particular attention to the temperament of the dog. Some breeds may be more prone to particular behavioral characteristics than others but not all dogs conform to these stereotypes. For example most Labrador Retrievers are friendly and willing to please but there are some who can be quite stubborn and even aggressive. For this reason puppy personality tests are far more important than relying on breed standards.

HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR NEW PUPPY.

Having a puppy is a big responsibility. No matter the age of the puppy, you can be assured that much will be required of you. If for some unfortunate reason the mother dog is not near, you will become the pup's surrogate mother.

If you have a litter of puppies and the mother dog is unavailable to keep them warm, you should take matters into your own hands. Puppies less than one month old cannot regulate their own body temperatures. You should provide them with artificial heat such as a heating pad. However, do not set the pad to "high" as this may burn the puppies. Do not set the puppies directly on the heating pad, either. Place a towel or blanket between the puppies and the heating pad.

You should keep your puppies in a draft-free room. Puppies under a month old should not be kept outdoors. If they are kept outside, they could become infested with ticks and fleas or they could become the target of fire ants. Also, other animals may come and "feed" on your puppies.
The mother dog will usually clean her puppies. If the mother dog is unavailable, you should clean the puppies. This stimulates them to potty. Puppies less than three weeks generally do not "eliminate" on their own. They need assistance. You should use a warm cloth to stroke the private areas (genital and anal) of the puppies. This should be done both before and after the puppies eat. If you have a puppy that does not go at this time, you should try again within the hour. If the puppies are extremely dirty, you can bathe them in warm water. You should dry them completely with a towel or a hair dryer that is set on low. If your pups have fleas or ticks, you should consult a veterinarian. Flea and tick products should not be used on young puppies. You should also know that if a puppy is infested with fleas or ticks that it could cause the puppy to become anemic.
You will have to bottle-feed puppies if they are less than six weeks old. You should purchase puppy milk formula. Puppies should not be fed baby formula or cow's milk. Puppies should be fed every three to four hours. Also, you should not put the puppy on her back when feeding. Hold puppies much like they would be positioned if they were nursing on their mother. Clean the puppies' faces when they are finished eating.
When your pups are around four weeks,their teeth will start to show. Once your pups start developing teeth and they are taking a full bottle at feeding time, you should introduce solid food to them. Start with a mixture of canned and dry food. You can soften the hard, dry food with warm water. Feed the pups three to four times a day. After two weeks, you should gradually start to wean your pups off of the canned food. By this time, your pups will have learned to "lap" and will be able to drink water. Water should be provided for your pups at all times.
Take your puppies to the vet if they get diarrhea, have bloody urination, if they have cold symptoms, have no appetite, vomit--or if their eyes drain for more than 24 hours. Your pups should start being vaccinated when they are between four and six weeks of age. Booster shots will be given every few weeks until they are approximately four to five months of age.




CRATE TRAINING PUPPIES

Crate training is teaching a dog to respect a crate as a “safe house.” It can be used for potty training, since dogs generally don’t like to eliminate in their own area. It is also a secure and comfortable place to put a dog if it is not safe for him (or other humans) to be left in the house unsupervised. The dog’s first experience in a crate must be positive! Dogs are den animals, but that does not mean they will adapt to a crate overnight. Crate training is just that...training. If we teach the dog that the crate is a positive place to be, then we will have a dog who enjoys spending time in his crate.

Leave the crate door open so that the dog can explore. Feed the dog all of his meals in the crate.

Constantly, but randomly throw a treat or a toy into the crate when the dog is not looking. Let the dog enter the crate to eat the treat or to get the dog toy. This will encourage the dog to enter the crate to get good things, and will help associate good things with the crate. Do this at least 10 times per day. Continue with step #3: Praise the dog when he is in the crate. Let the dog exit at will. (Do NOT praise the dog or treat the dog for exiting the crate. This teaches the dog exiting is just as good as entering, and you want to reward the dog for going into the crate. All praise and treats are given to the dog when he is physically inside the crate.) If your dog is reluctant to enter the crate, leaving a “treat trail” from outside of the crate to inside the crate helps and continue step three.

Once your dog has no problem entering the crate, you may begin to add a cue word if desired. (Examples: “Crate,” “Kennel Up,” etc.) Say the cue word once and toss a treat into the crate. Throw up to 5 treats through the bars of the crate (with the door open) if the dog is staying in the crate. Ask your dog to exit the crate and as soon as the dog exits the crate all treats stop. Repeat.

Cue the dog to “crate” and then give the dog a busy toy, such as a stuffed Kong. Let the dog enjoy the busy toy for a couple of minutes, then let the dog out of the crate before the dog is finished with it and take away the toy. Repeat for at least one week, about three times per day.

If the dog is still not entering the crate automatically, encourage with more food, toys, and praise. Throw treats and toys into the crate as in step #2, and continue to feed every meal in the back of the crate. You may also put the water bowl in the back of the crate to encourage entry. Also, be sure crating is not associated with you leaving. Don’t only crate the dog when you are leaving or a negative association of isolation can occur. Crate when you are home to prevent this association. Do crate a tired dog. Do look for true but rare panic behaviors or anxiety. If this occurs, stop and ask a qualified trainer if you should proceed with crate training.

Once the dog is happily running into his crate, give the dog his busy toy and shut the door. Randomize the time the door is shut from 1 to 10 minutes depending on how long the busy toy lasts, but remember to take away the toy before the dog is finished with it when you let him out of the crate.

Once the dog is comfortable with the crate, you may now begin to leave the room for brief periods of time. Return to the room the dog is in periodically to insure him you are still there. Let the dog exit at different time intervals, as that the dog is in the crate for 5 minutes, 20 minutes, 8 minutes... (Remember to ignore the dog for exiting the crate. We want a dog who thinks entering the crate is fun and rewarding, and good things happen in the crate.)

When your dog is comfortable in the crate for thirty minutes or more, he is ready to begin to sleep inside the crate. It is strongly recommended to keep the crate in a family member’s room for several reasons:

The dog does not think he is being isolated from his pack members.
Family members can hear signs of stress in the dog.
Family members can hear if the dog needs to use the restroom.
Your dog is almost there! Begin to leave the dog in the crate as you take short trips outside of your home. If you have a tape recorder or video camera, it is helpful to set this up to make sure your dog is not stressing during your absence. Make sure to vary the time away from home up to thirty minutes.

Once your dog is crate trained, don’t forget to practice crating him for a couple of minutes every day while you are home. If you are only using crate training for a puppy-safe-area (much like we humans use play pens for our children), remember to practice crate training after the dog is completely house trained. This will insure that the dog does not forget his crate training.

* Remember only let a quiet dog exit the crate. Don’t teach your dog ‘barking means I’ll come and give you attention or let you out of the crate.

SOME SIGNS OF STRESS TO WATCH FOR:

Wet fur from drooling.
Urination or defecation in the crate.
Crate damage from escape attempts.
The crate is in a different location from where you left it from the dog sliding the crate along the floor while still inside it
Excessive barking or whining. If the dog does start to bark or whine, try to distract the dog with a treat and ask for any behavior the dog knows, like “sit.” Reward THAT behavior with a treat several times before opening the crate door. This should stop the noise, reward the dog for a different behavior (the “sit”), and ensure that the dog has not trained you, thinking, “If I bark or whine enough, I get to exit the crate.”
Damage to surrounding objects the dog could reach through the crate, or damage to bedding material. This can also be play behavior.
Damage to the paws from trying to dig out of crate, or damage to the mouth from excessive chewing on the crate trying to escape.
If any of these happen, stop and ask a qualified trainer.


CHOICE BETWEEN DOGS OR BITCHES
In some ways, choosing between male and female dogs is a matter of personal preference. However, there are some characteristics which are common in bitches and other characteristics which are common in male dogs. It is important to evaluate these characteristics and determine which sex would fit in best with your home situation. Additionally, choosing between male and female dogs is important if you already have another bitch or male dog and are choosing an additional dog. This article will list a few characteristics of bitches, a few characteristics of male dogs, and how to choose between male and female dogs when considering a second or third dog.

The following characteristics often apply to bitches:

Independent - Bitches tend to want to be in control of the entire situation. They may come to their owner when they are seeking affection but will often move away when they have had enough.
Stubborn - In many packs, a bitch is typically the Alpha. Female dogs crave more control of situations and are quick to respond to perceived challenges with fierceness.
Territorial - Female dogs mark in the same way male dogs do. A spayed female may continue to mark for her entire lifetime regardless of when she is spayed while most males will cease marking behaviors shortly after they are neutered and the testosterone levels subside.
Reserved - Bitches are generally less affectionate and friendly than male dogs. This characteristic is noticeable in puppies and becomes more pronounced with age.

Changes in Mood or Behavior - It is also important to note that if you do not spay your bitch, she will come into heat at approximately one year of age and approximately every six months thereafter. During this time, there will be some bleeding as well as a change in mood or behavior.
The following characteristics often apply to male dogs:

Affectionate - Male dogs are typically more affectionate than bitches. They tend to crave attention from their owners more than bitches and as a result, display more affectionate behaviors.
Exuberant - A male dog is also more likely to be fun-loving and outgoing throughout his lifetime than a bitch. While a bitch tends to become more reserved as she ages, a male dog maintains a more puppy-like exuberance throughout his lifetime.
Food-Motivated - Males are often very motivated by food. This food motivation can make training extremely easy as treats can be used to lure and reward a dog to display desired behaviors.
Attentive - While bitches tend to be more independent, males tend to be more focused on their human companions. They want to always be close to the human and are very eager to please.
Aggressive Behaviors - It is also important to note that intact males may display aggressive behaviors toward other males or exhibit marking behaviors. Additionally, intact males should be kept away from females in heat unless a breeding is planned.
Dog owners who are adding an additional dog to their home should carefully consider the ramifications of adding a dog of either sex. This is important because the makeup of the existing pack may be more accepting to either a male or a female dog. The following are general tips for selecting the gender of a second dog:

If you already have a male or a female, a dog of the opposite sex is generally the best choice. Dogs of the same sex are more likely to fight than dogs of the opposite sex.
If you already have a male dog, he is likely to be more accepting of a female and you are likely to have fewer dominance issues if you add a female to the pack. However, if you opt to add another male to the pack, they can peacefully co-exist and may even become friends. It is important to closely monitor their interactions early on to ensure aggressive behaviors do not become common.
If you already have a female dog, she is likely to be more accepting of a male. Most males tend to be submissive. If he does not challenge your resident female, she is not likely to have a reason to fight with him. Adding a female dog to the pack, however, may result in complications. The worst combination of dogs is two bitches because they are more likely to fight than a male and a female or two males. However, many dog owners have two or more bitches that live together without problems. As long as there is an established Alpha and the other bitches know their place in the pack, there will not be dominance struggles often, although they may still occur.
Selecting a male or female dog is largely a matter of personal preference. The above characteristics are generalizations, and it is certainly possible to purchase or adopt a female puppy who displays male characteristics or a male puppy who displays the typical female characteristics. Additionally, bitches that are spayed and dogs that are neutered often do not have the gender-specific problems associated with their sex such as coming into heat or marking.